I have kept a journal in some form or another since I was about ten. I have no idea why I started, but when my father brought home a tiny pocket diary for me from one of the medical reps that had visited his office, something in my brain clicked and I started writing down what I had done each day. Some days are just a scribbled “TGIF!!!” and the end of the school week, while others contain minute detail. I continued with this until well into my twenties, before the digital age overtook me and I started typing memories instead of writing them, and in the final few years, I took to opening each new journal with a quote from a song or poem, to epitomise how I wanted that year to turn out. Going through some boxes and old journals last week, I was surprised to find that I had opened my 2001 diary with the quote “Life doesn’t frighten me at all” by Maya Angelou.
Because, truth be told, almost everything frightens me! I blame my parents for coming up with an endless list of Things That Are Very Dangerous and instilling in me a fear of everything from plane crashes to horses to riding a bicycle (I kid you not!). Add to that the fears that life experience imposes on most adults (you know, financial destitution, dread diseases, terrorist attacks…) and you could say that much of my life has been one of risk-averse behaviour. So nobody was more surprised than I when, in my thirties, I took up skiing. For a start, I can categorically say that your thirties are not an ideal time to take up a sport that requires extra travel insurance because of its risk of injury. Three-year-olds will barrel down a hill with no fear at all, because they have no idea what havoc a fractured skull or even collarbone might wreak upon their life. Thirtysomethings, however, have a pretty accurate idea. On my first day at beginner’s ski school in Andorra, I wept with terror and told the instructor I was there under duress (but I was back the next day, and the day after that). Four consecutive seasons of beginner’s classes later, I was cautiously skiing red runs and the year after that, even the odd black run. I was officially hooked and looking forward to many years of snowy joy. And then in February 2014, a sneaky ski weekend ended on a blue slope by the chair lifts with a broken femur, a skidoo evacuation to a first-aid centre, a shot of ketamine, a helicopter ride to hospital, surgery to fix my femur with a titanium rod, and three months on crutches. Unsurprisingly, I solemnly declared to everyone that I know that I was done with skiing for good.
But… oh, how I missed it. From my hospital bed in France after the surgery I tortured myself by watching the Sochi Winter Olympics obsessively. As my leg healed, I would try to move my knees from side to side as you would in skiing while I brushed my teeth at night. And when we were in the Swiss Alps a year later, it took all the prudence and self-control I could muster not to hurl myself down a snowy slope on a pair of skis. I missed the thrill of that moment when you point your skis down a steep piste to start your run down. I missed special camaraderie with good friends on (and off!) the slopes. I missed the magical beauty of the mountains and trees covered in a pristine layer of fresh snow. But most of all, I missed having an excuse to eat all the fabulous Alpine dishes. Because, you see, one of the best reasons to ski is the massive amount of energy that you expend, thus necessitating huge calorie-laden meals to refuel. Once you have experienced the traditional Savoyarde food in the Alps, you will start to see the wisdom in this statement. Kick off your skis and stop in at any of the character-filled wooden chalet restaurants beside the pistes and you will find tartiflette on the menu, an utterly decadent potato bake including smoky bacon lardons, onions, cream and slices of Reblochon cheese. So although I missed the thrill, the friends and the snowy mountains, i do believe it was the tartiflette that enticed me back onto skis and up the mountains last month, almost two years to the day after the accident. Yes, there were tears; and yes, there was much terror. But I pointed my skis down and prayed that muscle memory would take over. It did, I survived, and the taste of success was oh so sweet – but not as good as the taste of the tartiflette that awaited me at the bottom of the run.
Of course, skiing is sadly not a year-round passtime, but cooking is, so whenever I feel in need of a little Alpine fix, I can recreate the Savoyard flavours of tartiflette at home. Being a peasant dish, the flavours are pretty uncomplicated, but don’t be tempted to use anything except a Reblochon cheese, or at the very least another semi-hard Savoyard cheese. If all else fails, use Port Salut or a young Fontina. Traditionally the dish is cooked in a shallow earthenware dish called a tartiflette, but it also worked perfectly well in my Le Creuset skillet. Bon appetit!
- 1.5kg waxy potatoes
- 1tbsp olive oil
- 1 onion
- 200g lardons or smoked streaky bacon, chopped
- Sprig fresh thyme
- 100ml crème fraiche or cream
- 50ml white wine (optional)
- 1 clove garlic, halved
- 1 x 500g Reblochon cheese
- Salt and Pepper
- Cook the unpeeled potatoes in a large pot of boiling water for 15 minutes, until just soft on the outside but still a little hard in the centre. Drain and allow to cool, then peel and slice into 3-4mm thick slices.
- Pre-heat the oven to 200C.
- Heat the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed pan. Add the onion, bacon and thyme and fry until the onions are beginning to caramelise slightly. (If using, add the wine and allow to simmer for a further 5 minutes until most of the liquid has evaporated.) Remove the thyme sprig.
- Rub the inside of an ovenproof dish with the cut ends of the garlic clove. Swirl a little extra olive oil in the base of the dish, then layer half of the poatoes into the base of the dish, seasoning with salt and pepper as you go.
- Top the potatoes with the onion bacon mixture and half the cream, then follow with the remaining potatoes and a good grind of salt and pepper.
- Slice the cheese in two horizontally through its equator to make two disks (I slice the flat surface of the rind off too). Place the disks of cheese on top of the potatoes, covering as much of them as possible. Cook in the oven for 15-20 minutes until golden and bubbling.
- Serve with a tangy herb salad and a glass of crisp, dry white wine.
If you love hearty potato dishes, you might also like:
- my South African potato bake
- Camilla’s bacon & potato layer bake
- Kavey’s variations on potato Dauphinoise
- Jac’s Scottish rumbledethumps
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Kavey says
I remember you saying you were fine with skiing but I have to confess I didn’t believe you… I just think that although you are someone with a lot of fears, you are also very brave and adventurous and you find a way to overcome the fears. And you loved skiing so I’m so happy you could go back to it after all!!!
Kavey says
I remember you saying you were done with skiing but I have to confess I didn’t believe you… I just think that although you are someone with a lot of fears, you are also very brave and adventurous and you find a way to overcome the fears. And you loved skiing so I’m so happy you could go back to it after all!!!
Camilla @FabFood4All says
Well done Jeanne for getting back to a sport you love and I’m not surprised this dish helped lure you back, it is I’m sure like reassuring warm hug after a day of exertion:-)
Jacqueline Meldrum says
Oh my yes please (without the bacon)!!! Love the photos too. What a happy holiday and you came home safely. Phew xxx
Herschelian says
Hooray! a recipe for Tartiflette!
I first ate this in Alsace when I was young and foolish, but then on two summer hols in Savoy I ate it several times to the lasting damage of my hip size!
It is such a wonderful dish…cheese, potato, bacon, egg etc is always a winning combo.
As we are still in the chill of winter in Beijing this is going to be Sunday night’s supper.
Thanks Jeanne!
Contessa Candice says
You love cheese so much, and *gasp* you left some in my fridge! *curtseys* I am honoured.
And bravo to your bravery (or crazyery)! Having never skied in my life, after reading your words I am totally hooked. Although, I think I’ll start with journalling… easier, you know? And I’ve been meaning to do it for years. xx
Nadia@maisontravers says
And no risk of injury- except writer’s cramp maybe.
Rosa says
A heavenly winter dish! I love raw milk Reblochon.
Cheers,
Rosa
Okkie says
Sounds most delicious
Nadia@maisontravers says
One of my favourites. Anything with cheese, potatoes and lardons must be the best.
Bee says
I relate totally about the fears! The horror of reading about the fall,helicopter .hospital,titanium rod! Turns my stomach!
But looking at the delicious tartiflette takes it all away!
Where did u grow up and when did u matriculate!
I think we had the same Dr Spock upbringing!!!
Kit says
Now I understand the ski madness!
Tartiflette sounds well worth venturing down slippery slopes for.
Michael Robinson says
Wow this looks like it would work as an amazing side as well as a hearty main meal, I will be cooking this up for my veggie girlfriend 🙂
CuisinebyMilanoTime says
Aww it seems so delicious!!
Wish you a great Monday!
kisses
Dili
Meeta says
I am so proud of you. Even though you have all these incredible worries and fears – you have grabbed this one and taken it downhill so to speak. Good for you my dearest Sister! As for Tartiflette – I have always been a big fan and it is one of my favorite winter dish!