Some people have an uncanny knack for being permanently in fashion. They seem to have been born with an innate sense of trends and always seem to be one step ahead of the fashion pack, unveiling hot new looks months before the high street catches up. They have no qualms about donating a perfectly good coat to charity because it is sooooo last season’s style. Their hairline and hemline are always perfectly in sync with the latest Vogue cover girl.
I am not one of those people.
My saving grace is that I hang onto clothes (and hairstyles!) for so long that after spending a few years being spectacularly out of fashion, suddenly the season for, say, maxi skirts rolls around again and I am accidentally back in fashion. All I have to do to appear bang on trend is to carry on wearing the same skirt I have been wearing anyway for the past 3 years! Mini skirts, batwing sleeves, wedge heels, capri pants – I have seen them come; I have seen them go; and I have seen them return as surely as the seasons follow one another in a regular pattern. I am not so different when it comes to food. As a child, I adored butter so much that if my mom was not looking I would happily slice some butter off the block and eat it as if it were a particularly melty cheese. Then in the 1980s, we were bombarded with advertising telling us to swap butter for margarine as it was healthier. I tasted margarine and instantly disliked it – so for almost 20 years while the rest of the world ate margarine for their health, I was unfashionably spreading butter on my bread. And then, all of a sudden we discovered that butter is not so bad for you after all and that margarine was full of trans fats. Everyone chucked their margarine tubs to join me at the butter churn, and just like that, I was eating on trend again.
I once read somewhere that the 2 fastest ways to make a million were to start your own religion, or to write a successful diet book. And if you look back through the history of famous diets, it does seem that people are extraordinarly motivated to come up with a diet that will cure all ills. People with varying degrees of medical or dietary knowledge have been enthusiastically devising diets pretty much since the first cavewoman asked if her bum looked big in her sabre-tooth tiger loincloth. Let’s see… drinking cider vinegar first thing every morning. Chewing each mouthful of food 32 times. No protein and carbohydrates in the same meal. Eating only cabbage soup/grapefruit/baby food. Replacing some meals with liquid protein shakes. Eating according to your blood type. Juice fasting. Raw foods only. The macrobiotic diet. The low GI diet. The alkaline diet. Intermittent fasting, or the ubiquitous 5:2 diet. Take your pick!
But the diet that seems to have the most longevity, being tweaked and recycled every couple of decades, is one which was first suggested in 1825 by celebrated food writer Jean Brillat Savarin: the low carb diet. Oh, make no mistake, it’s been repackaged many many times: in the 1860’s a Mr William Banting lost 50 pounds by cutting out sugar and starch on the advice of his doctor and “banting” briefly became a synonym for dieting . The diet has subsequently popped up in slightly amended form on a fairly regular basis as the Atkins diet, the Dukan diet, the paleolithic diet and most recently the LCHF diet (low carbohydrate high fat). I have heard all the arguments in favour of the latest incarnation of diet – how easy and delicious it is to follow; how much weight you lose, how much better you feel;. and how it can stave off type 2 diabetes. But as with all diets that I have come across, it fills me with doubts. For a start, I don’t agree with the idea that the key to health lies exclusively in what you eat – if your eating plan is not combined with an exercise plan, you are simply trading one set of medical problems for another. And I have yet to hear of anybody on a crazy diet talking enthusiastically about how much energy they have to exercise… On a personal level, if I had to cut out all wholegrains, pulses and most fruit, I fear I would develop an intestinal obstruction! And from a socio-economic point of view, I have issues with telling people who subsist on a diet of maize meal because it is affordable, that the key to health is simply to eat more fat and protein – because these are often a far more expensive option and simply out of budgetary reach. It’s very much the same as telling people to eat organic fruit when it is always the most expensive thing on the shelf: it politicises and turns healthy eating into the preserve of the middle class. So much as I’d love to lose the weight that I have gained during the months since I broke my leg, I don’t think I will be chucking out the carbs any time soon. I’ll carry on building up my time in the gym; I’ll drink lots of water; I’ll eat lots of fresh fruit and vegetables and meat and chicken and butter and cheese. And when the mood takes me I will defiantly pop a pizza in the oven, or prepare a plate of pasta and enjoy the illicit thrill of eating something that the rest of the world seems to believe to be Nutritional Evil Incarnate. And the best thing of all? Give it a few years and suddenly somebody will come up with a diet that glorifies carbs… and just like that, I’ll be eating bang on trend again!
This pasta is a lovely dish to make in the Spring and early summer when local asparagus are plentiful and cheap. For the smoked salmon, you can use cheap trimmings rather than slices as you are only going to chop it up anyway, so the whole thing becomes a super-affordable luxury. I used orchiette pasta, but whatever shape you have to hand will work just fine (short pasta is best for catching the creamy sauce though). Mine was made with cream, but you can use creme fraiche for a lower fat alternative. The best wine matches for this dish run to the more crisp, zingy white options like a dry Riesling, a Muscadet or a Sauvignon Blanc.
- enough pasta for 2 people (I used orchiette pasta which really grips the sauce)
- 1-2 Tbsp olive oil
- 1 shallot, finely chopped
- 1 small bunch of fresh asparagus (slim spears work best)
- 100g smoked salmon trimmings
- a little flour
- 125ml single cream
- salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Prepare the asparagus spears by snapping or chopping off about 1cm of the thick end of the stem. If the stems are very tough, use a vegetable peeler to peel off the outer layers of the lower third of the spear. Chop the spears into 2.5cm lengths, reserving one whole spear for garnish
- Prepare the pasta in plenty of boiling salted water according to the package instructions.
- While the pasta is cooking, heat the oil in a large heavy frying pan and add the shallot. Sautée over medium heat for a few minutes, then add the asparagus. Cook until the asparagus is softened but still as dente.
- Stir in the flour – enough so that all the liquid in the pan is absorbed. Stir constantly to prevent lumps. Add and stir in the cream a little at a time, stirring continuously to prevent lumps. If you find that the sauce is too thick, thin it with a few spoonfuls of the pasta cooking water.
- Add the smoked salmon trimmings and heat until barely heated through (you con't want to cook them!), then turn off the heat. Check for seasoning and add salt and pepper as necessary.
- Drain the pasta and return it to the cooking pot. Add the sauce to the pasta and mix well.
- Using a vegetable peeler, shave the reserved whole asparagus into long thin shavings. Divide the pasta among two serving bowls and serve, topped with asparagus shavings.
If you love asparagus, be sure to follow my Awesome Asparagus Recipes Pinterest board! You might also enjoy these salmon and asparagus recipes from other bloggers: Michelle’s smoked salmon paté; Margot’s chargrilled asparagus with Parmesan & balsamic glaze; Katie’s bacon, tomato & asparagus pasta; Ren’s Smoked salmon, asparagus & cream cheese pasta; Michelle’s asparagus quiche; Nazima’s charred asparagus with peanut, sweetcorn & chive dressing; Camilla’s salmon, courgette & shallot quiche; Jen’s smoked salmon, courgette & dill pasta; Sarah’s asparagus & bacon pasta; Danii’s asparagus, lemon & goat’s cheese pasta; Helen’s smoked salmon verrines; Sarah’s baked rosti with smoked salmon; and Laura’s roast asparagus, chorizo & butterbean salad.
Dannii @ Hungry Healthy Happy says
This sounds so delicious and light. Thanks for sharing my recipe too 🙂
Camilla @FabFood4All says
I love simple flavours and quick pasta dishes so this is an absolute winner of a recipe! Your pictures are to die for and I really love that blue patterned bow!
I’m with you on the diet score – everything in moderation is the key:-) As for fashion I could probably start up my own Vintage shop LOL!
Laura@howtocookgoodfood says
Oh I would struggle to give up my carbs. I did try it on the Paleo diet for a week recently and managed fine but then how would I ever manage without my favourite crab linguine? I also love orechiette pasta and the delicious flavours in your dish will convince me to make this and enjoy it with a glass of white wine. Surely it’s everything in moderation?!
Sarah, Maison Cupcake says
I can’t give up carbs and all this no carb nonsense is just another fad. In the 90s everyone was obsessed with low fat food that was invariably higher in sugar, then we’ve had Atkins and now the dreaded Paleo diet.
I think avoiding processed foods as much as you can and being sensible about fat and sugar is the best strategy. Not that I’m one to talk!
Ren Behan says
Ha ha write a diet book to make a million?! I haven’t heard that. Stunning pasta dish, I loved the shaved asparagus over the top – gorgeous. Thank you for linking to my salmon/asparagus pasta recipe, too. x
Lindsay says
Yum, this dish looks scrumptious! I must give it a try!
Fuss Free Helen says
Delicious Jeanne, I know what you mean about fashion, I. am so out of fashion I am back in again
Kavey says
Yes, I identify with you completely, both on clothes and food front but food most of all. I refuse to give up things I love because the experts say they’re bad for me, since consensus changes a few years later in any case!
LOVE that glorious photo of asparagus in the colander.
Sam says
Love this Jeanne, carbs will always be in fashion for me. I also love your picture of raw asparagus.
Ps. So looking forward to the day when this lchf nonsense finally moves on x
Fede says
How timely for me, since I am – as you know, since I bored you to death with it – on a low carb, high protein ‘diet’. I am having pasta once a week, as an Italian I’d die without it! but i have stop at the cream, which thankfully isnt much used in southern Italy. I love orecchiette and salmon and asparagus are great too, so will try the combination 🙂
Minus the glass of wine, too of course..
Rosa says
I’m like you. I keep my clothes for decades and always have the same haircut…
This dish is fabulous and these pasta have a lovely shape.
Cheers,
Rosa
Paloma Hermoso says
I’ve just discovered your blog… and I love it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the recipe, I’ll certainly trying it.
http://tinymarmalade.blogspot.co.uk/
Michelle says
This looks amazing and so easy to make (I’m not the world’s best when it comes to food preparation 🙂 Lovely photos as well.
Rog says
yeah that’s my favorite asparagus! and yeah that looks delicious and so healthy, I will be trying this at home for the next weekend.. Already subscribe for your new recipes 🙂
Gary says
Asparagus and salmon, two of my favourite things! I’ll be trying this soon for sure. I like to use creme fraiche in palce of the cream as I like the texture and flavour.
Jen @ Blue Kitchen Bakes says
I could never ever give up carbs, especially not wonderfully simple delicious pasta dishes such as this. Smoked salmon and pasta is one of my favourite treats so thanks for linking back to my post.
Kit says
Totally with you, both on fashion and carbs, and am equally a butter champion. I don’t know how you can feed a family of teenagers on a budget without substantial doses of carbs at every meal and I’m sure they need it anyway to keep them going. This looks gorgeously luxurious and celebratory.